Unexplored Nilgiris: How Kurumba art is keeping a way of life alive

"People may admire and buy our paintings," Saraswati Akka says. "But I don't know if they understand how we live."

She's humble, but quietly proud and fiercely protective of her Kurumba heritage.

Saraswati Akka belongs to the Kurumba community, one of the indigenous peoples of the Nilgiris, whose lives and traditions have long been intertwined with the ancient shola grasslands. But these forests are steadily shrinking, replaced over the years by exotic tree plantations and agricultural landscapes. As this unique ecosystem becomes increasingly fragmented, the voices of the communities who have lived alongside it for generations are becoming quieter too.

Inside Kurumba Painting Traditions

Saraswati Akka is from Banagudi Shola, a Kurumba settlement whose name translates to 'Sacred Forest'. Her husband, Kannan, is from Vellari Combai, one of the oldest Kurumba villages in the Nilgiris.

Together, they are keeping alive a painting tradition believed to be thousands of years old.

She speaks with remarkable clarity about Kurumba art, a tradition that, like the shola forests themselves, is becoming increasingly rare. What began as ancient rock art evolved into paintings on the mud walls of Kurumba homes, depicting everyday life, rituals, dances, celebrations and the community's relationship with the forest. Today, those same stories are painted on canvas and paper. "These paintings are important to us because they represent our entire culture and our relationship with the land," she says.

Colours Drawn from the Forest

Even the colours once came from the land. Before poster paints became common, pigments were made from natural materials. Yellow, brown and black came from the Vengai tree, while different shades of green were created using leaves and other plants gathered from the forest.

Kannan learnt the art from Krishnan Raghavan, the renowned Kurumba artist who was posthumously awarded the Padma Shri. Today, he continues to paint while supporting his family through farming and honey harvesting. He's also begun training children in the village, hoping to pass the art on to the next generation. Saraswati Akka, meanwhile, works with the Aadhimalai production unit, helping produce wild honey and amla products.

When asked what she misses most, she says, “The old days.”

Perhaps that is what every Kurumba painting carries — a way of remembering a culture, a landscape and a way of life that she hopes will continue into the future.

Written by Roopa Palanivel

Roopa is a Communications Consultant for Indiahikes, a marketing professional and yoga teacher based in Coorg. She loves being outdoors and travelling with her husband and dog.