August 2026 · 6 min read
In this story
You can hear the pride in his voice when you speak to Rajesh Kumar, who has spent his life in Bhalyani Village, located in the Lug Valley of Kullu district. He speaks fondly of his grandfather and great-grandfather, who built traditional Kath-Kuni homes with their own hands.
In a place where villagers are deeply connected to the land, their homes also blend seamlessly into its surroundings. Stone and wooden Kath-Kuni homes rise organically from the terrain, almost frozen in time, preserving a slow, relaxed and more spiritual way of life.
These homes are built to survive earthquakes that are common across the middle Himalayan belt. In 1905, when a deadly earthquake rocked Kangra, sturdy concrete structures crumbled — but Kath-Kuni homes stood strong. Their resilience comes from both material and method. Kath-Kuni comes from 'kashth' or 'kath' for wood, and 'kona' for corner — quite literally, "wooden corner." It's a design built not just to last, but to move with the mountains around it.
You can’t help but be amazed at the ingenuity behind its design and architecture, when you stay inside a Kath-Kuni house. It is a testament to traditional wisdom, combining aesthetics with an ecologically-sensitive design.
Traditional mountain homes use horizontal beams instead of vertical columns, allowing the entire building to distribute load laterally across its full length. They are constructed by layering interlocked slate stones and wooden planks, without using any mortar. The absence of mortar allows micro-vibrations to dissipate faster.
Joints are made using wooden pegs and dovetail notching. Without nails the structure moves as a single, interlocked unit instead of breaking apart at joints. Locally sourced slate tiles are used for roofing. The weight applies downward pressure that adds stability to the structure beneath.
Even the choice of wood is thoughtful and pays homage to the dense deodar forests of Lug Valley. Also called ‘tree of the Gods’, Deodar’s elasto-plastic properties allow walls to flex under seismic stress rather than crack. Its natural aromatic oils repel termites and insects, extending the structure’s life without treatment. “You can actually smell Deodar wood as you walk through Kath-Kuni homes, and that unique aroma stays with you for a while, even after you leave.” reminisces Abhiskek Tiwari, Outdoor Leader at Indiahikes, who has spent five months visiting Bhalyani Village and living with locals.
You see these old Kathkuni structures all across the villages of Lot and Bhalyani. Photo by Ninad Lanjewar.
It’s easy to understand why, when you live there. Deep trenches and elevated podiums keep water and snow from seeping into the house and the steep stone roof prevents snow from accumulating. Every Kath-Kuni house has a veranda surrounding all four sides, not just for relaxation but to also keep snow away from the core structure.
Kath-Kuni can vary from modest two-storey homes to three or even four floor structures. Generally, the lowermost level is for cattle and livestock and upper levels are for people. There’s a very logical reason for this - body body heat from the animals below, keep the upper floors warmer! The top-most floor, generally houses the family deity and is maintained as sacred space.
Villages like Bhalyani in Lug Valley are pristine and untouched by commercial tourism. There’s not much information about it and accommodation is generally hard to find. As part of our Unexplored Kullu Valley program, you will be living in one of Rajesh’s Kath-Kuni homes.
Rajesh's Kathkuni home in Bhalyani where we stay as part of our Unexplored Kullu Valley Program. Photo by Nitesh Kumar J.
Rajesh remembers the COVID-19 lockdown, when cities came to a standstill. But life in Bhalyani village against the backdrop of the Himalayas went on. “We continued working on our farms and this kept us busy. We didn’t have to worry about supplies, because we can store what we harvest for up to two years” he says with pride. This self-sufficiency in a largely agrarian community is a stark contrast to bigger towns and cities.
Open grasslands are surrounded by small farms that support the village's daily needs. You walk through fields of wheat, barley, pahadi urad daal, and orchards brimming with apples.
Every family has at least one grain storage structure called ‘Kothar’, where food grains can be stored for years, supporting them through winters. The storage units are made of the rugged deodar wood which keeps food grains fresh, protecting them from moisture, insects and other microorganisms.
During your stay you will get a firsthand glimpse into life in Lug valley. Villagers start their day with prayer, farming, cooking over wood-fire, doing some carpentry, or weaving wool. Locals spend their evenings unwinding at Bhalyani ground - a beautiful, open grassland meadow surrounded by dense pine, oak and deodar forests. The ground is also home to the Katrusi Narayan Temple (Shri Krishna Temple).
“Bhalyani ground is all about community. It’s the heart of the village. You can spend evenings chatting with locals while watching children play. You may see people returning from a hard day of work, carrying fodder for cattle on their backs,” says Abhishek.
Joints are made using wooden pegs and dovetail notching. Without nails the structure moves as a single, interlocked unit instead of breaking apart at joints. Locally sourced slate tiles are used for roofing. Photo by Nitesh Kumar J.
Just like the ancient Vedas, knowledge of Kath-Kuni architecture has been passed down orally – no drawings or written measurements.
But this knowledge is fading away with the people who once carried it - Thavis or skilled artisans and stonemasons from the hills. It’s no surprise that new Kath-Kuni construction has nearly stopped.
Homes today combine some Kath-Kuni elements with modern features. It's not just the loss of traditional craftsmanship. Deforestation laws make deodar wood more expensive and harder to access. But homes that have been around for generations, like Rajesh’s and his great-grandfather’s, still stand, preserving the knowledge of mountains and how to coexist with them.
Written by Roopa Palanivel
Roopa is a Communications Consultant for Indiahikes, a marketing professional and yoga teacher based in Coorg. She loves being outdoors and travelling with her husband and dog.
Stay in a traditional Kath-Kuni home in the remote Bhalyani Village in Kullu’s Lug Valley. Walk through farms and forests, spend time with local families and discover the traditions that continue to live in the valley.
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