Kullu’s food tells the story of mountain life

Who doesn’t like a steaming bowl of ‘pahadon waali maggi’ or a comforting plate of parathas with a huge dollop of butter! While visiting Kullu-Manali most tourists rarely stray beyond their comfort zone when it comes to food. But food isn’t just ingredients and spices, they are stories passed down through generations. 

Traditional pahadi cuisine of Himachal is uncomplicated and humble. It’s very distinct from other regional recipes found across North India, and offers a glimpse into the culture and lifestyle of its local community. With a unique culinary identity, food here is shaped by Himachal’s diverse landscape and climate. In Bhalyani Village, in the Lug Valley, life revolves around farming and agriculture. Apple orchards mingle seamlessly with pine forests and terraced fields, against the backdrop of the Himalayas. “Today, our village is well connected to the town and markets because of better road connectivity. But we have always been very self-sufficient and can store grains for up to two years”, says Rajesh Kumar who hosts guests in his Kath-Kuni home at Bhalayani Village during the Unexplored Kullu Valley program.

The shil, a traditional stone grinder, is still used in Kullu to prepare spices and ingredients for local dishes. Photograph by Ninad Lanjewar.

Everyday meals revolve arounds grains, millets and pulses such as wheat (gehun), barley (jau), ragi (mandua), makki (maize), and maash (pahadi urad dal). Compared to wheat and other grains, rice consumption is relatively low, and usually eaten at night.

Himachal’s cooking philosophy is inspired by mountains, where higher altitudes demand high-energy, easy to digest food. Nourishing without being heavy or overwhelming, pahadi cuisine uses minimal spices but is packed with flavour. 

Ghee, which aids digestion according to Ayurveda, is made from the milk of cows that grazed on mountain pastures. It’s a mainstay in Himachali dishes - used for tempering and served alongside meals. Pickling and dehydrating seasonal vegetables and fruits to preserve them for long winters is also very common. 

The warmth of Himalayan kitchens is mirrored in its food

The best food feels like home, comforting and wholesome. Staying in Bhalyani village, will give you a first-hand glimpse into how traditional dishes are cooked and served. From flatbreads and curries to pickles and sweets.

Here are some lesser-known delicacies that are unique to this region.

Chilra: Wheat (gehun), barley (jau) and ragi (mandua) are ground into flour to make rotis (flatbreads) and chilra. The chilra batter is usually left to ferment overnight, and then used to make a crepe-like dish, served with chutney or pickle. 

In Kullu, simple local meals are often made richer with a generous serving of desi ghee, and sometimes a drizzle of honey. Photograph by Nitesh Kumar J.

Makki ki roti & sarson ka saag: During winters, makki ki roti – flatbreads made with maize flour – is a staple dish eaten with sarson ka saag or mustard greens. Amaranth leaves (chaulai) are used to make quick stir-fries or light broths for winters. 

Picch or pitch: Starch water strained after boiling rice is used to make a very unique and delicious rice water curry. 

Lingri ki sabzi/pickled lingri: Fiddlehead fern or lingri which grows in the Himalayan wilderness, is available only during May and June. These tightly coiled green shoots grow in clusters near forest slopes and are foraged by locals. During summers lingri is made into a curry and pickled so that it can be relished during winters. 

Siddu: This is a regional delicacy which holds a special place in Himachal’s culinary heritage. Whole wheat flour is fermented with yeast and filled with poppy seeds, nuts, lentils and spices. The dough is steamed, topped with ghee and served with chutney.

Babru: Similar to a kachori, babru is a traditional deep-fried flatbread. Stuffed with jaggery syrup or soaked black gram (urad dal), it can be eaten at breakfast or as a teatime snack. 

Seera: Wheat grains are soaked for about a week and washed repeatedly to get a white essence of wheat. This is then sun-dried to form seera. Dried seera is ground into a fine powder, slow-roasted in ghee, and cooked with sugar and water to create a delicious, velvety sweet treat.

Fermented Kachalu: Kachalu or giant taro is a popular vegetable in this region that can be fermented. The starchy tuber is boiled and cooked with spices, and allowed to cool. It is then put inside a clay pot to ferment. 

Persimmon jam/pickle: Another very unique preparation is a sweet, spicy and tangy pickle prepared with Himachali persimmons. Also called ‘japani phal’, persimmons are harvested from October-November. It can be eaten as a fruit or made into jams and pickles.

Himachali cusine reflects centuries of mountain trade and cultural exchange. You can experience this while staying alongside monks at Dechen Choekhor Buddhist Monastery. Popular Tibetan dishes include thukpa, which is a hearty noodle soup made with a savoury broth. Tingmo, siddu’s pahadi counterpart, is an airy steamed bread, served alongside a dipping sauce or curry.

Every dish tells a story of the valley’s traditions

In Kullu Valley, every dish is as unique as the hands that prepared it. Himachali cuisine is so vast, that restaurants and dhabas may not really uncover the soul of authentic pahadi cuisine. We must be willing to explore beyond the ordinary. Wander through a village, stay with families that live there, and listen to their stories. No grand signs or famous names. Just food that is rooted in tradition and feels like a warm hug from a loved one.

Written by Roopa Palanivel

Roopa is a Communications Consultant for Indiahikes, a marketing professional and yoga teacher based in Coorg. She loves being outdoors and travelling with her husband and dog.