From the Tea Estates of the Nilgiris to Your Cup

Growing up in Chennai, I visited Ooty many times during my summer vacations. And if there’s one image that comes to mind when I think of those trips, it’s the bright green tea plantations covering the hill slopes. And, of course, the customary photograph taken among the bushes.

But tea wasn’t always part of the Nilgiris landscape. The higher elevations were characterised by stretches of open grassland and pockets of evergreen shola forest tucked into the valleys. Indigenous communities like the Todas, Badagas, Kotas, Irulas and Kurumbas depended on the shola ecosystem in many ways, from their livelihoods to their cultural practices. 

Things began to change in the early 19th century, as the British East India Company expanded its presence in the Nilgiris. Ooty was soon developed into a colonial hill station, followed by experiments with tea cultivation. Over the next few decades commercial tea plantations began to take hold, transforming the landscape and the lives that depended on it.

What we see growing on the hills today wasn’t always there. Still, it’s hard to imagine the Nilgiris without the tea estates. And, for so many of us who depend on a cup of chai to feel refreshed, a visit to the hills would be incomplete without understanding the story behind tea.

Lush green tea plantations in Ooty. Photograph by Nitesh Kumar

What makes tea from the Nilgiris distinctive? 

Any tea lover knows there’s an art and science behind making the perfect cup of tea. The ratio of tea powder to milk, just the right amount of sugar, maybe a hint of ginger or cardamom. But whatever your preferred way of drinking chai, it all boils down to the quality of the tea leaf. Where it is grown, the soil, altitude, and weather, along with how the leaves are plucked and processed, all influence what finally makes it to your cup. 

Altitude is one factor that contributes to the flavour profile. The cooler temperatures at higher elevations slow down the growth of the tea bushes and affect the development and balance of compounds that contribute to flavour and aroma. Korakundah is among the highest tea estates in the Nilgiris, sitting at over 8000 feet.

Nilgiris tea is also quite different from what you get in Assam and Darjeeling. Assam tea is often robust, full-bodied and dark, making it well-suited to the kadak desi chai many Indians love.  Darjeeling tea tends to be more subtle and delicate. From the Nilgiris, you get a smooth, bright and refreshing brew, with fruity, floral and slightly citrusy notes. It’s also very versatile. You can use it to make a classic cup of chai, with or without milk, or even serve it as iced tea.

Women plucking tea leaves in a tea plantation photograph by Chaithanya Rajashekhar

From robust CTC to subtle orthodox tea

Tea production in the Nilgiris ranges from smaller, boutique tea growers to larger plantations. According to the Tea Board of India, independent growers contribute around 75% of the district's tea production. While larger estates process their leaves in their own factories, independent growers often sell their harvest to bought-leaf factories. 

The two main types of tea produced in the Nilgiris are CTC (crush, tear, curl) and whole-leaf orthodox tea, and the difference lies in how they are processed. CTC tea consists of small, rounded granules produced by machines. It is commonly used in everyday brews because it infuses quickly and produces a strong, dark cup. Orthodox tea, on the other hand, is processed to retain more of the original leaf’s shape, giving it a more subtle, nuanced aroma. Nilgiri orthodox tea received Geographical Indication status in 2008, recognising its association with the region. Some estates also produce green, white and oolong teas, as well as speciality teas such as silver tips.

The Unexplored Nilgiris program takes participants to the Devashola Tea Factory which is a part of the Nilgiris Agro Agencies Private Limited. The factory is around 100 years old and produces 7.5 lakh kilograms of orthodox tea annually from its estate, which sits at around 6100 feet. “We produce high-grown tea which contributes to the flavour. Orthodox tea essentially capitalises on the advantages offered by higher elevations. While it’s more export-oriented, we do produce stronger grades for the Indian market too,” explains Sharmila Balaji Medum, Director of Nilgiris Agro Agencies Private Limited.

Unexplorers learning how tea leaves are processed at a tea factory. Photograph by Pritish Bhanushali.

The best way to enjoy the subtle flavours of orthodox tea is to infuse it rather than boil it. Add tea to freshly boiled water and allow it to infuse for 4–7 minutes, depending on the type of leaf. Strain and add a light squeeze of lemon to bring out its flavour. If it’s dust-grade orthodox tea, you can add milk and sugar, but the leaf type is better enjoyed as black tea.

The hands behind every tea leaf 

Much of tea processing is mechanical. But it’s important to remember that before the leaves even reach the factory, there’s a human behind every tea leaf. This is especially true of plucking. It’s an art that takes a trained eye and skillful hands. You can’t miss the tea-picking Ammas when you drive through the hills, their colourful saris standing out against the bright green bushes of the tea estates. 

The tea pluckers in the Nilgiris are mostly women and form the backbone of the tea industry. Photograph by Chaithanya Rajashekhar

They make their way expertly through the narrow pathways between the rows of bushes, with baskets strapped to their backs or bags slung over their shoulders. Their hands move quickly as they pick the tender shoots, usually two leaves and a bud, taking care not to crush the leaves. Sometimes they work for hours on uneven, slippery inclines. Despite the hard work, you may see groups of women humming, singing and chatting with each other as they pluck tea leaves. 

For many who have completed the Unexplored Nilgiris program, learning to pluck tea, even in the rain, has helped them appreciate the skill and effort involved.

Unexplorers pluck tea leaves during the Unexplored Nilgiris program. Photograph by Chaithanya Rajashekhar

Journey from leaf to cup: The making of Nilgiris tea

When you walk through a tea garden, close your eyes for a moment. You’ll notice that the air smells fresh, green and slightly earthy, especially when the leaves are wet. Inside a tea factory, the aromas change as the leaves move through each stage of processing, from hay-like notes to warmer and deeper aromas, and finally to the familiar fragrance of the tea we make at home.

So, what happens to the leaves once they reach the factory? The process varies depending on the type of tea, but for black tea, it involves a few key steps.

• Withering: Freshly plucked leaves are spread out to reduce moisture and make them soft enough to be processed.
• Rolling or crushing: The leaves are either rolled to retain more of their shape (orthodox tea) or they are passed through specially designed rollers that crush, tear and curl them into small granules (CTC tea).
• Oxidation: The leaves undergo oxidation in a controlled environment. This step helps develop the colour, flavour and aroma of black tea.
• Drying: The oxidised leaves pass through dryers using hot air. This stops the oxidation process and reduces moisture to a low level, making the tea suitable for storage. 
• Grading, sorting and packing: The finished tea is sorted and graded by leaf size and shape of its particles before being packed.

Beyond the cup of tea

When I look back at the photos from my childhood trips to Ooty, I’m reminded of how little I understood the place. The Nilgiris is so much more than a hill station in Tamil Nadu. It has its own history, traditions and stories to tell. The story of tea is a compelling one that continues to evolve. 

The industry is facing a new set of challenges. Small growers are struggling to get a fair price for their harvest. Now, erratic rainfall and drought-like conditions are adding to the uncertainty. So, I’m going to be a little extra thoughtful when I sit down with my cup of chai. Because while we may be the ones brewing it, every leaf has already passed through many hands before it reaches us.